(above): Long Beach Island N.J. Where I began surfing.

Rode my first good wave one glassy morning at 11th St. in Ship Bottom.

1967: Summer. Me (13) and my next door neighbor Steve Murphy (14), rented a couple of surfboards in Surf City, NJ. and proceeded to get our asses totally kicked by the ocean.  That was my first of many to come, mega-humiliating surfing experiences.

1970: Sophomore year, life is great, happy as a clam.

Bought my first board at Ron Jon's in June 1970......a 6'8" Surfboards Australia single fin.  I washed dishes and bussed tables all summer at The DUTCHMAN'S to pay it off.

 After a rough start, (I had no clue as to what I was doing) I picked up Surfing really fast and got really good at it right away.

2010 marks 40 years of surfing for me. Which is funny because growing up I had barely even heard of surfing!